COMING OF AGE

Today is one of those days when, walking around town, I'm truly reminded that I live in Japan, as the sight that presents itself wherever one goes cannot be observed anywhere else in the world.

The reason?

It's 'Coming of Age Day' ('Seijin no Hi'), a public holiday and the most important day in the calendar for all those who have turned 20 and therefore the age of maturity, and it is held in order to congratulate and encourage them, and to 'help them realise that they have become adults' (just in case they may already have forgotten...).

The day consists of official ceremonies, school reunions and after-parties among family and friends, with the young women all dressed in beautiful kimonos (the so-called 'furisode', the most formal type), which is a marvellous sight.

Coming of age ceremonies go all the way back to the eighth century, and when you see the kimono-clad women in the streets, you almost feel transported back to ancient times - well, except for the backdrop of skyscrapers...

But it's one of the famous contrasts that make Japan such an exciting place to live in, with history still very much alive in the modern world!

There is an equivalent to wear for men for the festivities (the so-called 'hakama' ). However, most choose to wear modern suits, because unlike their female counterparts, they probably can't be bothered with the intricacies involved for putting on ancient dress, or the impracticality of walking with the obligatory wooden sandals. So to this day, I have actually never spotted a man on this day wearing traditional clothing.

No doubt one of the highlights of the day for all those coming of age is that this comes with the legitimacy of drinking alcohol, and I would imagine that many of them will enjoy that new freedom considerably at those after-parties, to the extent that they will feel rather worse for wear by the end of the day. - and wake up with a headache the next morning. Welcome to adulthood!

But I can't blame them, after having had to wait for the privilege for so long. In contrast, Switzerland's legal age for drinking (and buying) alcohol is 16, so by the time Japanese youngsters come of age, their Swiss counterparts will already have plenty of experience with hangovers...

Coming of Age Day is also a welcome bank holiday weekend for the rest of the population, not yet feeling quite ready to go back to work in earnest after the extensive New Year's celebrations. I'm no exception and quite like the idea of easing myself into the new work year.

This day is part of the so-called 'Happy Monday System' (yes, there is such a thing in Japan!), under which a number of public holidays were permanently moved to a Monday around 25 years ago, to give people with regular five-day work weeks guaranteed three-day-weekends. There are three more of these in the second half of the year. Not a bad idea for a country where workers take notoriously few paid leave (even though they are entitled to it). More about that another time.